Lesson 10 of 16 · Level 3: Advanced
How to Build an Index Fund and ETF Portfolio
- ⏱ 12 min read
- ❓ 4 review questions
- ✍️ Exercise with solution
In this lesson
- What an index is and why index investing works for most people.
- How to design a simple two- or three-fund portfolio for your risk profile.
- When a target-date fund is the easiest answer.
- How to choose between ETFs and index mutual funds, and what to do with dividends.
- How to rebalance your portfolio with real numbers.
This lesson explains a method; it doesn't recommend specific products. Check each fund's costs and documents, make sure your brokerage is SIPC-protected and registered, and consider the tax rules that apply to your accounts.
In the last lesson you chose a risk profile and learned why diversification and low costs matter. Now you'll turn that into a real portfolio. The strategy you'll learn, index investing, is the approach many of the most respected investors and academics suggest for ordinary savers, because it's simple, cheap and hard to mess up. Warren Buffett has famously said a low-cost S&P 500 index fund makes sense for most investors, and the late Vanguard founder John Bogle built an entire movement around it.
What an index is
An index is a list of stocks (or bonds) that represents a market, built with public rules about what's included and how much each one weighs. Some well-known examples:
- S&P 500: about 500 large U.S. companies, roughly 80% of the U.S. stock market's value.
- Total U.S. stock market indexes (such as the CRSP US Total Market or the Dow Jones U.S. Total Stock Market): large, mid-size and small U.S. companies, thousands of them.
- International indexes (such as the FTSE Global All Cap ex US or MSCI ACWI ex USA): developed and emerging markets outside the U.S.
- Bond indexes (such as the Bloomberg U.S. Aggregate): investment-grade U.S. government, mortgage and corporate bonds.
An index fund doesn't try to guess which companies will do best. It buys everything in the index, in proportion. That's why its costs are so low.
Why it works
- Maximum diversification: a total-market fund holds thousands of companies; add an international fund and you own most of the world's public companies.
- Low costs: as you saw in lesson 9, a 1-point difference in fees can cost tens of thousands of dollars over a career.
- The evidence: S&P's SPIVA reports have shown year after year that most actively managed funds trail their index over long periods, after fees.
- Fewer decisions: fewer chances to make the behavioral mistakes from lesson 9.
The building blocks of an index portfolio
| Building block | Job in the portfolio | Example index |
|---|---|---|
| U.S. stocks | Long-term growth | Total U.S. stock market or S&P 500 |
| International stocks | Growth plus diversification beyond the U.S. | FTSE Global All Cap ex US or MSCI ACWI ex USA |
| U.S. bonds | Stability; cushions stock market drops | Bloomberg U.S. Aggregate, or short/intermediate Treasuries |
| Cash (optional) | Money needed soon | Money market funds or Treasury bills |
The classic three-fund portfolio, popularized by the Bogleheads community, is exactly that: a total U.S. stock fund, a total international stock fund and a total U.S. bond fund. Here's a moderate version:
- U.S. total stock market (36%) 36%Thousands of U.S. companies of every size.
- International stocks (24%) 24%Developed and emerging markets outside the U.S. (40% of the stock portion).
- U.S. bonds (40%) 40%Investment-grade bonds to soften stock market drops.
Three sample portfolios
| Profile (lesson 9) | U.S. stocks | International stocks | Bonds | For whom |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Conservative | 18% | 12% | 70% | 3–5 year horizon or low tolerance for drops |
| Moderate | 36% | 24% | 40% | 5–10 year horizon |
| Aggressive | 54% | 36% | 10% | 10+ years and able to sit through 30–40% drops without selling |
Even a two-fund portfolio (one global stock fund and one bond fund) is better diversified than what many individual investors own.
The one-fund option: target-date funds
If you'd rather not manage anything, a target-date fund holds a ready-made mix of stock and bond index funds that gets more conservative as its target year approaches. Pick the year closest to your retirement (say, 2060) and it rebalances for you. It's often the default in 401(k) plans. Just compare expense ratios, and don't combine it with lots of other funds, or you'll undo its built-in mix.
1. What does an index fund do?
It doesn't try to beat the market; it aims to match it at the lowest possible cost. And no stock fund guarantees a return.
Practical decisions
ETF or index mutual fund?
- How you buy
- Through any brokerage, at market price during the trading day; many brokers allow fractional shares.
- Costs
- Very low expense ratios; most large brokers charge no commission.
- Taxes
- Usually very tax-efficient in a taxable account.
- How you buy
- At the day's closing price (NAV), in exact dollar amounts.
- Costs
- Low; some have investment minimums or fees at other brokerages.
- Convenience
- Easy automatic investing of $100 or $500 on a schedule.
Inside a 401(k), you'll usually choose from the plan's menu of mutual funds; look for the lowest-cost index options or a target-date fund. In an IRA or brokerage account, either works.
Dividends: reinvest them
U.S. funds pay out dividends (and bond funds pay interest) rather than accumulating them inside the fund. Turn on automatic dividend reinvestment so that money buys more shares and keeps compounding. In a taxable account, dividends are taxed in the year you receive them even if you reinvest them; in a 401(k), IRA or HSA, they aren't.
Currency and location
International stock funds give you exposure to other currencies, which adds diversification for a U.S. investor. For bonds, whose job is stability, most U.S. investors stick to U.S. dollar bonds, or international bond funds hedged back to dollars. If you have both taxable and retirement accounts, a common tax-saving habit ("asset location") is to hold bonds, whose interest is taxed as ordinary income, in tax-advantaged accounts first.
2. You hold an S&P 500 index fund in a taxable brokerage account. What should you do with the dividends to maximize long-term growth?
Reinvesting keeps compounding at work. Withdrawing doesn't avoid the tax: dividends in a taxable account are taxable either way.
Rebalancing with real numbers
Say you have a moderate portfolio of $25,000: $15,000 in stocks (60%) and $10,000 in bonds (40%). Over a year, stocks rise 18% and bonds 4%:
| Start | End of year | Weight | Target | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stocks | $15,000 | $17,700 | 63.0% | 60% |
| Bonds | $10,000 | $10,400 | 37.0% | 40% |
| Total | $25,000 | $28,100 | 100% |
Move $840 from stocks to bonds: stocks $16,860, bonds $11,240.
To get back to 60/40, stocks should be 60% of $28,100 = $16,860, so you'd move $17,700 − $16,860 = $840 from stocks to bonds. Inside a 401(k) or IRA that's tax-free. In a taxable account, an alternative that avoids selling (and capital gains taxes) is to send new contributions to bonds: here, about $1,400 of new money into bonds would restore 60/40.
Rebalancing forces you to sell a bit of what rose and buy what lagged: the opposite of what your emotions want. Do it once a year, or whenever a weight drifts more than 5 percentage points from its target.
3. Your target is 70% stocks and 30% bonds. After a stock market drop, you're at 62% stocks. What does rebalancing mean?
Rebalancing returns the portfolio to your target. After a drop, that means buying the part that fell, which is uncomfortable but disciplined.
Your investment plan in one paragraph
Write it down and reread it the next time the market drops:
"I invest $____ every month, on day ____, in a portfolio of ___% U.S. stocks /
___% international stocks / ___% bonds, through ____ (account and brokerage).
I reinvest dividends and rebalance every ____. I don't sell because the market
fell; I only change the plan if my goals or my situation change."
4. Which of these is a sensible "one-decision" option for a 401(k) investor who doesn't want to manage a portfolio?
A target-date fund diversifies, rebalances and gets more conservative automatically. Last year's winner and "a bit of everything" lead to random, often expensive portfolios.
Practice exercise
- Based on your time frame and profile, pick one of the three sample portfolios (or something in between).
- Find, at your 401(k) or brokerage, a total U.S. stock index fund, an international index fund and a bond index fund, and note each expense ratio.
- Calculate how much of a $600 monthly contribution goes to each fund in a moderate 36/24/40 portfolio.
- Fill in your one-paragraph investment plan.
See solution
For $600 a month at 36/24/40: $216 to U.S. stocks (36%), $144 to international stocks (24%) and $240 to bonds (40%), which adds up to $600. Set up three automatic investments on payday, turn on dividend reinvestment and put "rebalance every January" on your calendar. If the expense ratios you found are well above 0.20%, look for cheaper index options or a target-date fund.
Summary
- An index fund tracks a whole market at very low cost.
- A two- or three-fund portfolio (U.S. stocks, international stocks, bonds) is enough for most people; a target-date fund does it in one.
- ETFs and index mutual funds both work; compare expense ratios and turn on dividend reinvestment.
- Hold bonds in tax-advantaged accounts when you can, and keep bond money in dollars.
- Rebalance once a year or with new contributions; write your plan down for the next downturn.
Next lesson: How to Analyze a Mutual Fund or ETF Before You Invest. You'll learn what to check in a fact sheet and prospectus, and which red flags should make you look elsewhere.
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